I'll show here how I do bluestuff casting, used in the examples above to use extra arms and heads with Milliput cast bodies to make additional Possessed Space Marines.
Here are the examples primed and zenithal shaded
I dip the bluestuff in a hot water container
This is the consistency you want, be careful not to burn your fingers too badly
I then squish the piece against a blob of bluestuff inside of a lego-built cage
Here is the underside. Lots of times I accidentally squish some details if I press too hard (like in the example above) you can see that some spikes got squished and will result in a damaged master and a hole in the final mold. Oh well too bad, it doesn't happen often if you are careful, and I was distracted by making this tutorial.
Against the light
I pop the whole thing in the Freezer so I can keep moving
I prep the next pellets of bluestuff on hot water
After I remove it from the freezer I make a lego press
I also sparkle in powder to make demolding easier
I spread it around with a brush
Grab more bluestuff
Use pliers to not burn your fingers
I then put the top layer of bluestuff and press firmly with the lego press so that the pressure is even and the top ends up flat
Back in the freezer!
After it cools down I start disassembling the mold cage
flat bottom
The sandwich
The middle was still warm so I propped it back in the freezer
After that I can start to pull the pieces apart slowly, kind of peeling it out
The master piece
I then prepare milliput, my milliput was super old so I have to cut away the cured outer layer
Mix the two parts and start filling in both halves
Use plenty of water and really push it in all the crevices
I then put one atop the other and massage it down to that I spread the milliput around
just keep pressing and massaging it, alternating between a finger squeeze to get excess milliput out as well as flat table presses to "reform" he shape
Any excess goes into the cable/tentacle maker
have loads of this stuff
After the milliput cures a bit (about 40m on my temperature) I remove the top part of the mold to accelerate the drying process
You can use a shaping tool to scrape some of the flash already, they should ideally be a thin film
Scrape away
After about 2 hours you can usually pull the piece out
The piece right out of the mold, still somewhat pliable, I then use a scalpel to cut away the flash and reshape and smooth the mold lines while the milliput is still pliable, as after it completely hardens its much more challenging to do so, though sanding and filing chunks is easier then.
The collar spikes demonstrate how that kind of spindly detail are hard to come by, but also, this is a highly complex shape to pull off
Applied to the model
Original vs Copy
A simpler shape
Out of the mold
After cutting flash, filing and sanding
Painted models
Comments